DID YOU KNOW?
The overwhelming majority of skin creams on the market are water-based. Oil-based creams, whilst common in the medical field, are rarely found on cosmetic counters.
Oil-based creams have largely been ignored in the cosmetic field. This is no surprise when a leading US dermatologist states that ‘sebum serves no known purpose. In Europe however, the importance of sebum and the acid mantle as well as skin-friendly oils in cosmetics has been subject to numerous scientific and medical studies. Here are some of the results when water-based creams were compared with oil-based creams
HYDRATION OF THE SKIN
Numerous studies have been conducted into this property of skin creams. It is universally accepted that oil-based creams offer longer lasting and better hydration of the skin compared to water-based creams. In their paper three dermatologists from Karlsruhe University in Germany measure hydration of water-based creams in minutes whilst oil-based creams ensured hydration for hours. The importance of healthy levels of hydration have long been ignored or at least underestimated. For one, dehydration of the skin leads to inflammation and two, the formation of free radicals. It is one of the main causes of skin aging. But furthermore, even the best active ingredients cannot develop their full potential in skin suffering from dehydration. Think spreading seed (your active ingredient) in a parched field (your dehydrated skin).
ELASTICITY OF THE SKIN
Italian researchers D.Spiller. completed a 12-month study comparing water-based creams and oil-based creams. As expected, their study confirmed the theory of hydration of the skin. They found the levels of elasticity of the skin were significantly improved with the use of oil-based cream. No effect on skin elasticity was found with water-based cream.
DELIVERY OF ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
Today’s cosmetic formulators have a vast array of potent active ingredients with scientifically proven efficacy at their disposal. These ingredients usually form the backbone of the marketing message for cosmetic products. Formulators know that delivery of these actives into the skin is difficult and sometimes near impossible. A study conducted by a leading German cosmetic chemist found that oil-based creams deliver 120% more of alpha tocopherol (Vitamin E) into the skin compared with water-based creams. During our training an alert aesthetician pointed out that alpha tocopherol is an oil-soluble ingredient which might explain the result. However, another German study with urea, a water-soluble ingredient, confirms that, again, an oilbased cream is the only option if you want the ingredient to reach the area in the skin where it will be of benefit.
BIOMIMETICS – AN IMPORTANT CONCEPT
The term biomimetic refers to the concept of copying life’s processes. The use of biomimetic ideas generally lead to superior results. I have already mentioned the two biomimetic chemicals found in the skin’s acid mantle, alpha tocopherol and urea. It should be noted that both alpha tocopherol and urea are biomimetic ingredients that are found in the acid mantle, the skin’s natural protective layer. Our acid mantle – the combination of sebum, perspiration and NMFs (natural moisturizing factors) – is an oil-based emulsion. Sebum forms the outside phase which is logical.
If water (perspiration) was is on the outside it evaporates almost immediately. The well-known cosmetic chemist and author Florence Barrett-Hill refers to this as ‘oil sitting on top of water’. A cream based on biomimetic principles doesn’t just include biomimetic ingredients, however valuable they may be. To be a true biomimetic cream it must be formulated along water-in-oil principles, i.e. it must be an oil-based cream – just like the skin’s natural acid mantle. Why do we see so few oil-based creams? Using commonly available technology such creams must contain high levels of oils, making them less attractive to today’s consumer. Many years ago Dr. Horst Spiller developed proprietary formulation technology that allows his biomimetic creams to be produced with significantly lower levels of oils. They offer all the advantages of oil-based creams without the ‘glug’ of regular oil-based creams. Thus ensuring the client continues with the Dr. Spiller regime. More beneficial properties of Dr. Spiller oil-based creams not mentioned in this article are taught in our training seminars.
