The beauty of our profession is that it offers us incredible flexibility of choice in determining what modalities we will undertake and trust to deliver the level of results that consumers are now expecting. It matters not whether we choose to work with advanced equipment technologies or embrace traditional methodologies. The fact still remains that we must be able to demonstrate that what we offer is credible, evidence-based and stands its ground in a fiercely competitive arena of treatment outcomes that are now available in the aesthetic industry, whether they are delivered by a skin therapist or a doctor.
The synergy of treatment modalities is often the key factor that can accelerate impressive anti-ageing results that are substantial and noteworthy, regardless of the skin type or condition. Getting incredible results requires that we fully explore and understand both the skin and its function and how ingredients and procedures will effectively impact the skin to bring about the changes we, and our clients, are seeking.
In this article Paul Fister explores the principles of exfoliation through natural botanicals, and how when combined with formulations that can deliver superior hydration can rapidly transform the skin and offer results that can rival the best the aesthetic industry has to offer.
Corrective vs. Maintenance
When considering effective anti-ageing skin therapy results, we need to examine the outcomes we wish to achieve. As such, there are two complementary levels of service we can offer:
- Corrective treatments – designed to achieve dramatic changes in the appearance of the skin in a short time frame
- Maintenance care – designed to quickly allow the skin to regain its natural healthy look, minimise the appearance of skin ageing and support the skin through preventative measures
Many different ‘corrective’ modalities have been developed over the years. Ultimately, the method remains the same – outer layers of the skin are damaged or injured in some way to generate re-growth of new skin layers. This approach will normally lead to an improvement in the appearance of the skin.
The mediums used to achieve this are heat (laser and intense pulsed light), a variety of chemical peels (deep, medium and superficial) or mechanical (dermabrasion, microdermabrasion, skin needling). Corrective treatments carry some measure of risk. Side effects, though infrequent, can be severe and lasting. Destruction of the pilo-sebaceous unit will result in healing by scar tissue. Following deep chemical peels the skin can develop an unnatural, plastic-like appearance. As a result, laser and deep peels have been losing popularity.
Peeling through the Herbal Approach
Herbal Peeling is an alternative skin resurfacing treatment that is not well understood. Thousands of applications over 50 years have resulted in an enviable record of effectiveness and safety. Provided the treatment is applied correctly the epidermal barrier is not compromised, eliminating the risk of infection.
Since early civilisation humans have kept records of which plants have beneficial value – which may be useful as foods and which should be avoided. This information has been recorded in ancient herbal manuscripts and passed by word of mouth from generation to generation. Modern scientific tests have proven many of the beneficial properties ascribed to various plants. Research is continuing.
Unlike traditional skin resurfacing methodologies, herbal peeling does not just rely on the skin’s natural healing response for a beneficial outcome. Active substances contained in the plants are made available to the skin in combinations and dosages that cannot be matched in products sourced from a laboratory.
What Are Some of These Plants?
- Horsetail (Equisetum arvense) contains the highest percentage known of silicic acid of any plant. This compound is an important component found in numerous tissues, including our connective tissue, collagen and elastin. Clinical tests conducted in Unna, Germany, have shown that the application of horsetail results in a firming of the skin, with increased elasticity.
- Marigold (Calendula officinalis) was considered so important that the seed was taken to the Americas by the early settlers. Its topical healing activity has been demonstrated in clinical trials with burns, scalds and wounds. It has been found to reduce inflammatory reaction, is soothing to the skin and accelerates healing.
- German chamomile (Chamomilla recutita) is today’s most explored medicinal plant. Its primary active component is α-bisabolol. It has proven anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects. The action of German chamomile is invaluable in cases of irritated, reddened and sensitive skin.
- Pansy (Viola tricolor) is named in ancient texts as ‘the herb for girls with blemished skin’. It contains a variety of active substances that seem to have a positive effect in cases of impure and acneic skins.
- Ribwort (Plantago lanceolata) was known as the ‘First Aid Plant’. It is used for external treatment of wounds and to stop bleeding. The plant has the ability to destroy a wide range of micro-organisms and stimulates epithelialisation, the formation of new skin cells.
These brief descriptions don’t do justice to the richness in nutritional content of these plants, including vitamins, minerals, trace elements and their actions (antiseptic, astringent, demulcent, styptic, cytophylactic) that make up the compound used in herbal peeling.
From time to time we read about the importance of minerals and trace elements such as zinc, magnesium, copper, selenium, silicium, iron, phosphorus and more. Yet no man made formulation comes close to supplying a complete, well-rounded and synergistically active combination of these vital ingredients as do these herbs.
Once massaged into the skin, they slowly release their bioactive ingredients over two to three days. Doses are minute (we talk of a ‘millionth of a gram’), yet compared to regular delivery systems they are massive. They reinvigorate the skin in a way that differs fundamentally from the methodology of traditional skin resurfacing, i.e. the destruction of outer skin layers followed by healing.
The Role of Inflammation
By its very nature a corrective procedure involves stress, irritation and inflammation of the skin. Inflammation has been named as a core cause of all skin conditions and should be kept to a minimum. It is one of the main reasons why daily application of products containing aggressive peeling agents is losing support with a growing number of experts.
Following every corrective procedure it is advisable to apply skin care products based on biomimetic principles. They will allow the skin to recover quicker and to regain its natural, healthy appearance.
Inflammation is related to many processes in the skin. Following excessive exposure to the sun it can be observed as erythema. The healing process that follows a corrective procedure is accompanied by inflammation, as is a state of excessive dehydration of the skin.
Inflammation as part of a healing process is to be welcomed; chronic or long-term inflammation must be avoided because it destroys collagen and elastic fibres and contributes to ageing.
During the re-epithelialisation phase of a skin resurfacing procedure the barrier function of the skin is impaired, leading to excessive transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The skin reacts to this perceived external threat with an inflammatory response, hypersensitivity and oedema.
At this stage it is vital to replenish the lipids in the stratum corneum to rapidly rebuild the skin’s protective barrier function, leading to better skin hydration, a significant reduction in erythema and faster reversal of the inflammation process. A well-formulated moisturizer will encourage re-epithelialisation, decrease skin sensitivity and lessen the chance of scarring.
Identifying the Best Vehicle in a Moisturiser
Extensive research has been directed to the hydration properties of different emulsion types. It has been found that light water-in-oil (W/O) preparations are significantly more effective at protecting the skin against loss of moisture. They are the preferred choice following procedures that may lead to a temporary weakening of the stratum corneum barrier.
Re-epithelialisation and rapid recovery of the skin can be supported with the inclusion of actives. These ingredients are carefully selected to create an environment that is optimal for cellular repair and the re-establishment of the epidermal barrier.
Recent research has focused on peptides for their ability to support and speed the healing process. Vitamins, antioxidants and skin-identical substances such as natural moisturizing factors contribute greatly to a successful outcome.
W/O emulsions have been proven to deliver significantly higher levels of bioactive ingredients compared to oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. This may in part be due to their inherently better hydration properties as studies have confirmed that well hydrated skin will absorb up to ten times the quantity of an active ingredient compared to dehydrated skin.
As an added benefit W/O formulations typically contain lower and less sensitizing levels of potential irritants, such as preservatives and emulsifiers.
Traditionally, skin care products containing acids, high levels of vitamin C or vitamin A have been used for maintenance of the skin. These are now increasingly seen as contributing to inflammation in the skin. Symptoms are redness, flaking and dehydration of the skin, or as one therapist put it: ‘The skin looks to be struggling’.
Periods of inflammation, such as experienced during a corrective procedure, should be kept as brief as possible. Long-term skin maintenance should be designed to reproduce the conditions found on young, healthy skin. These biomimetic skin care creams are gentle, working with the skin rather than breaking it down, leading to a significant and speedy reduction in levels of inflammation.
Conclusion
The combination of herbal peeling with W/O skin care based on biomimetic principles enables the skin professional to deliver a well-balanced skin care program for skin renewal with long-lasting benefit.
The advantage of this methodology offers the following benefits:
- Corrective phase – combines high effectiveness with low risk
- Short inflammatory phase – the inflammatory phase of the corrective treatment is kept brief. New skin is apparent after five days
- Supporting home care – followed with calming, supporting and balancing daily care
- Solutions for problematic skin conditions – excellent results have been seen with skin problems like acne, scarring, sun damage, pigmentation and wrinkles
- Anti-ageing – the appearance of prematurely aged and sun damaged skin is improved
- Preventive – the appearance of signs of ageing is delayed
The results are an optimal balance, leading to a fresher, younger and healthier appearance of the skin.
Paul Fister has been involved in building and management of beauty therapy businesses since 1982. He is a business advisor, speaker, trainer and writer. He holds qualifications in Business Management from Switzerland. In Australia he obtained the qualifications of B.Bus (Mktg) and Cert IV (Workplace Training & Assessment). He is the Managing Director of OmniDerm Pty. Ltd. in Melbourne.
